Best atc belay device reddit.
The smart is my favourite belay device.
Best atc belay device reddit And when I'm belaying someone who's lead-climbing, I generally prefer the ATC. I would assume that anyone who has a grigri hanging off their harness would know how to use it, but if they didn’t, it’s definitely on them to tell you that before they start belaying you with it. End of story. As someone who pretty much uses the grigri2 for everything, I found this interesting and want to know what r/tradclimbing uses. I trained with ATC and the switch is smooth and intuitive. You made an excellent choice! I'm just saying, dynamic belay and soft catch are more or less interchangeable. 7 to 11 mm; less suitable for thicker or static 6 days ago · BLACK DIAMOND ATC-XP Belay Device for Rock Climbing and Rappelling, Blue Why we love it High-friction mode ensures greater hold and stopping power. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. Lightweight design with machined windows for weight savings. It functions as a tube device when belaying, and then allows you to belay up a partner in guide mode from the top, and it allows you rappel. If we do our job correctly, by the end of this article, you’ll know which belay device is best for you. ago So in germany a lot of gyms already enforce mandatory assisted devices, and then you get situations where foreigners come in to a gym where 95% of routes are lead and they can only lead belay with atc's, very safe guys! Aug 15, 2025 · Find the perfect assisted braking belay device. Petzl Grigri 2 - Best Overall Epic Peak Rescue Figure 8 Descender - Best Multi-functional Petzl Stop Descender Black Diamond ATC-Guide Black Diamond ATC XP - Best Value Read our complete buyers guide for belay devices. My options are 8. ATC guide is pretty much the gold standard belay device for mountaineering. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. ATC (Air Traffic Controller) is the name for a specific type of tube style belay device made by Black Diamond. I've used both grigri and atc and I like them both but I don't know which one is better to have as a first. The grigri/atc debate comes down the the argument that a component belayer doesn’t need a brake assist. Is there safe a way to let go of the rope while you are belaying? Could you clove hitch the rope to a locking carabiner and put it on your belay loop? Fairly new climber here, I learned to lead belay with an ATC, but recently got a Grigri and feel a lot more confident with it. ” Antin noted Dec 22, 2022 · However, which device is best for you is much less clear. Most of the people I lead climb with were already using a Grigri when they began leading and learned that way. Check out the poll and feel free to I'm very paranoid about belaying accidents, and would like to find a device that can be used as a backup for a belay, to lock on the rope if the primary belay device fails and sets the rope free (whether due to user error, or being knocked unconscious due to rockfall etc. Black Diamond ATC Sport Belay Device, big waste of money or biggest waste of money? comments Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment climb0r • 13 yr. Now, you can also use this device to rappel without a prusik. The pilot wont let you rappel. I own just about every belay device on the market, and my Climbing Technology AlpineUp is hands down the best belay device I've ever used. Belay Device Advice (haha) Hi, I don't know much about climbing so I apologize. For lead climbing, a Grigri is more difficult to use correctly than an ATC; for top-rope climbing, the opposite is true. Best Non-ATC belay device? Hey y'all! I've been climbing for a few years, mostly in the gym but occasionally outdoors with (much more experienced) friends as well. I like the ATC Guide for trad, multipitch, climbing with Hi, I'm just curious to know which belay devices you (as a climber) prefer for sport climbing? I had no problem with my belayers having either an ATC or an assisted braking device such as Grigri, ATC pilot etc as long as the belayer feels safe and competent. My Petzl reverso works for rappelling with it if I use two carabiners (as Petzl recommends), but I know Mammut used to make a figure of 8 specifically for thin ropes. ). Dec 13, 2023 · The Best Device to Use in a Pinch Most guides carry both the GriGri and the ATC, but in a pinch, they may rely on one device over the other. I use a grigri for multipitch. If you don't have a device that can autolock then you need to redirect. Aug 5, 2025 · See our guide to the best climbing belay devices of 2025, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. Knowing how to belay with multiple devices is an asset. It’s basically used like a normal tuber but with extra security. The Black Diamond ATC Belay Device The Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller, or ATC for short, is Black Diamond’s flagship belay device. I've had the "But it's a gri gri" argument too many times when I've asked my (new) partner to keep their brake hand on the rope. Giga Jul is the answer. What makes the ATC-Guide unique is the addition of two loops of aluminum. Edelrid Mega Jul. My belay device (reverso) is rated for 8. Otherwise just get an Grigri and quit sucking the dicks of the safety brigade. A mule knot can securely tie off any style of belay/rappel device. Suggestions on first belay device? Hi guys, I've begun buying my own equipment (I was renting before due to lack of funds) and now I am browsing for a belay device. Is there a passive device like the mega jul, atc pilot, or something else that folks like? The gridlock is a neat system, but I like its a bit overkill for use with a tube style belay device. On the FAQ for my gym they say: Tell us about belay devices! Dealer’s choice! You can use ATC’s, Gri-Gri’s, cinches… pretty much any modern belay device is ok with us as long as you know how to use it properly. I don’t care what my belayer is using so long as they are going to catch me if I fall. I can do that with the Gri-Gri just fine, but an ATC is simply easier. The ATC Guide is, in my opinion, the finest belay device ever made. However, after a few falls I became more anxious and no longer wanted my belayer to use an unassisted belay device in case he/she fainted We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Great for going down, a bit inconvenient as a belay device (bight through the small end) but it works. We can be confident of that trueI was wondering what assisted braking devices folks like for ice climbing? I have always used a Petzl reverso when ice climbing before. The ATC sees most use, the Gri-Gri usually comes out when I am belaying someone who's working a project (lots of hangdogging), or when my hands are tired because I just did a hard route myself. Keep reading to learn about the Grigri vs. Here are our in-depth reviews. Is the 8. When testing rope/belay device combinations, my goto is to set up a short rappel. 5mm? Is the 8. The ATC Guide (specifically the guide), when set up correctly, is an "auto-blocking" (not to be confused with "auto-locking") belay device for belaying a second. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. . Sep 14, 2020 · – Best Beginner Tube Style Belay Device – Black Diamond ATC Guide – Cheapest Beginner Belay Device Set – Black Diamond ATC XP Package Why Get A Beginner Belay Device? As you learn climbing it will initially feel very unsafe. It TR and lead belays just like your standard ATC style device, but it locks up instantly on a fall. And that any climber would prefer a competent belayer rather than a fancy belay device. I like it because I find it very easy to feed slack and provide an overall smooth belay in addition to being an assisted braking device. 5 mm single rope. Once you learn to belay and climb a little you’ll feel much safer and more confident in what you’re doing. I carry no other belay devices. Spare 'biner for a munter hitch is a better backup rappel strategy rather than having a spare 8 floating round. I have climbed a fair amount of multipitch and I actually prefer to use a single atc guide and a single grigri. Mar 12, 2025 · The Petzl NEOX solves the critical issue with most assisted braking belay devices — unwanted rope locking when feeding slack. If me and my partner are swapping leads, the belayer starts out with the grigri and the leader brings up the atc guide. 1 mm Beal ropes. The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. letting a little rope slide through, that are not safely available with a gri gri. You can use it for a double rope rappel, and belay one or two climbers following. The Prussik or stopper should be on the other side of the belay device holding the strand the way you are using it will just make the whole system difficult and quite honestly dangerous since one knot isn't supposed to hold your weight. If you opt to use something totally retro like a figure 8 or ye ol’ hip belay, you’ll be kindly asked to rent an ATC. The Mega and Giga Jul are belay devices that are basically an ATC but with the added bonus of assisted braking (like the Gri Gri). Will be weird to belay from the top with. I've done one mock lead and have a desire to do more, but no immediate desire for multi-pitch. 6mm kinda borderline for the Reverso whose single rope rating starts at 8. Does anyone know of any other brand making these, or should I just try to find one secondhand? For clarity, the Rad Grigri's vs ATCs: This really grinds my gears As someone who learned to lead belay using an ATC first, and who for a while felt much more comfortable using an ATC over a Grigri, all climbers should be more comfortable using a Grigri. I tend to agree. It offers basically all the features of the ATC XP, as well auto-locking top-belay for belaying seconds. I use an ATC Pilot for single pitch lead belaying. 5-10mm ropes, so this hasn't been an issue so far. I find myself reaching for the Grigri when i know my friends are going to top-dog 5. It’s mostly used to clip the belay device to an anchor when belaying a follower, but you can also use it flip the device if needing to ascend while rappelling Aug 6, 2021 · Not sure which belay device to get? We tested the Petzl GriGri 2 and Black Diamond ATC side-by-side to help you know which is right for you. I own an ATC-XP, ATC-Guide, springless Sticht plate, GriGri, CT-Alpine Up, a chain link and various homemade belay devices. Yes. It has assisted braking but it probably isn't one of the top 3 the assisted braking devices on the market. Asking someone to belay you with a grigri is totally fine. However, with all gyms requiring GriGris inside, I have started to think more about getting something with a brake assist for ice climbing. If you want to be flexible with your carabiner and use multiple belay devices, the Edelrid Strike and the BD Gridlock (which I found very fumbly) have similar function of keeping the carabiner nicely aligned. Ideal for recreational climbing, gym use, and lead climbing with ropes from 7. Hi all, with the release of the Petzl Neox I've seen a lot of discussion about the best application for different devices and was surprised to learn some people even use a different device for belaying a leader vs follower. Others have their preferences for similar designs from other brands, but I am pretty confident more mountains have been climbed with the ATC guide than any other. But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay devices, the best belay devices for different disciplines of climbing, and, of course, when to choose a Grigri over an ATC (and vice versa). Atc will also fail in some cases if your seconds falls while he’s making his own clove hitch at the belay. What this means is that if your second/follower falls, the rope will bind in the device on its own. Basically, my old atc has no teeth, no wall attachment and is hard to catch falls with. I The smart is my favourite belay device. 6 mm and 9. They make various flavours of it as well. I like to think I'm skilled with all of them. I use one with my grigri, because that tends to cross load the carabiner more, but its a bit more hassle to take on and off your harness, which you will be doing a lot with a tube device. For learning to belay I think the atc is the best device to start with, in a supervised setting. The safeguard is so popular because it can be used like a prussic/ropeman1 and also allows you rappel down at anytime if something went wrong, instead of having to switch over to a separate device. Sure, you can give a dynamic belay with either an atc or a gri-gri, but an atc allows additional options for softness, ie. If you must, you could use two belayers. Atc’s are probably preferred by the old guard. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. especially for lead climbing I like it a lot more than the grigri. Learn how to tie one (plenty of good youtube videos) with the device you plan to use (most commonly taught with an ATC, but works about the same with others) and you'll have a quick, secure way to block off a rappel and go hands free. I don't own any climbing gear past harness, shoes, chalk, & ATC. com Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. 5-10. I like my GriGri for more casual climbing, but the ATC style devices are more versatile and lightweight. But it doesn't work so good with an ATC, as the keeper wire usually opens the plastic clip of the carabiner. It is also very versatile - it can be turned into an ATC and used as anchor belay device; auto-break on rappel; and double ropes. I've recently got the Petzl Rad line to try out as a glacier travel and rappelling rope for ski mountaineering. I'm looking to acquire a new dry treated single rope for glacier traverses. 2024 Climb Guide Harnesses, Ropes, Pro, Pads, Shoes & More Explore I use a DMM Belay Master with my GriGri and wouldn't like to use anything else. Once the leader reaches the belay they put the follower/s on belay in guide mode. The Petzl Gri-Gri is a great device for belaying a sport climber, just make sure you get the Gri-Gri 2 or make sure your rope is 10mm or bigger if you get one of the originals. Nov 11, 2025 · The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is the best overall belay device for most climbers due to its versatility in both regular belaying and guide mode, excellent rope compatibility, and proven reliability across all climbing disciplines. There's a ton of devices to use to get out of the tree: Figure 8, ATC, Belay devices, and you can always just rappel using a munter hitch. If you don't like the brake assist on rappel like some people, you can flip it, and it'll act like a regular ATC. In this respect it is very much like its predecessor, the BD ATC-XP, and innumerable other similar devices. Because we believe the best belay device is not the best for everyone. Having someone belay with a device they’ve never used before and no What is/would be your preffered way to rappel on a 6mm rope like the petzl rad line? Are there any devices like the petzl reverso or black diamond atc that work on a 6mm rope? thanks in advance for help:) Aug 26, 2021 · Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device (Guide)—I believe that ATCs still have an important place in rock climbing. The operation is similar to a traditional ATC and it's light, with a brake assist for lead belaying. If he falls and the clove hitch is not complete the carabiner will prevent the atc from blocking. Feb 12, 2024 · We reviewed over 9 belay devices for this article. Jun 20, 2025 · Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device for Rock Climbing and Rappelling, Blue High-friction mode offers 3 times greater hold and stopping power than regular friction mode, ensuring enhanced safety during climbs and descents. Atc style belay device will fail in some cases when you have 2 seconds coming to the belay horizontally (traverse) if I remember correctly. Note that there are other situations (in alpine climbing / less than bomber anchors) where you might belay off the harness. I use it sometimes with a normal screw karabiner and sometimes with a special screw karabiner that prevents crossloading it’s both very convenient to use. What is the best belay device for an intermediate level climber? I've been considering the mammut smart belay device as I don't want anything clunky like a grigri, but I am open to suggestions. If it's easy to control the ropes, it's likely easy to belay and possible to stop a fall. Use the best for the scenario, but given the three options and a bomber anchor: ATC in guide mode. We break down key differences among the Grigri, Neox, Edelrid Pinch, and more top picks. I want something easy, lightweight and that will last me a long The reverso is made for multipitch climbing. Although Kochendörfer prefers an ATC or an alternative device to the GriGri, he admits that there are some situations in which the GriGri excels: “The only occasion where we use GriGri-like devices is for tree rescue and lift rescue. I am hoping to get a Christmas present for my boyfriend - he needs an ATC belay device? When I google it, I just see the simple belay device where the belayer holds on to the rope and use tension to keep the climber in place. If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. Jul 24, 2025 · Concise belay devices reviews tailored to your needs. 6 at the gym a dozen times or for use as a backup self belay device to quickly switch over to rappel. If you already own an ATC just learn how to use it, it’s a fine device. Below are the best belay devices that made our short list. Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. 6 going to perform as well as a thicker rope? It's not at mine, but your gym might be different. Try using two oval carabiners O&O with your belay device for less jamming and increased friction. See full list on outdoorgearlab. ATC. There are a number of similar devices as well. I'm sure the instructions that come with it include all sorts of CYA lawyer stuff, however. Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. When belaying the same technique for "taking in" that is used with an ATC or similar device is used, however in the event of a fall instead of having to "lock off the device" the belay does nothing and the device locks by itself. The only downside is it is a little more "slippery" than true cam- auto-break devices. I've mostly used 9.