Petzl atc guide. We have the same high and low friction sides with 2 tubes.
Petzl atc guide At first glance, our testers thought they would prefer the Reverso because it's lighter and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler. However, it does have drawbacks like Mar 19, 2024 · The devices used in 2021 included Black Diamond’s ATC Guide Alpine, Mad Rock Safeguard, Conterra Scarab Ti, and Petzl GriGri 2. 2. Sep 11, 2023 · Be safe: the skinny ropes require some practice, personal testing, and expertise. It allows you to belay your climbing partner, rappel, and use Reverso mode to belay one or two seconds. It offers basically all the features of the ATC XP, as well auto-locking top-belay for belaying seconds. I’ve had several different figure 8s, a number of Sticht plates, Lowe Tuber, BD ATCs, Petzl Reverso and Reversino The reverso is made for multipitch climbing. If you’re counting grams, Petzl’s guide-style Reverso weighs a mere 57g compared to the Grigri’s 175g. We pulled on a Petzl Reverso, Black Diamond ATC Guide, and a Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide to find out. 5 to 11 mm, half 7. Jun 29, 2018 · Petzl USA. it. This is a pretty normal force for a rope going through a device with tight bends like an ATC. This is secured directly onto an anchor point for doing a direct belay. Petzl USA. Aug 23, 2021 · Hey Kabir, I do love my ATC alpine for use with skinny ropes. In simple terms: if your belayer isn’t holding the brake strand, the Gri-Gri *should* still catch you. This is a feature available in the Petzl Reverso line as well, but the key difference is that the carabiner eyelet is oriented perpendicular to that of the Reverso. While the ATC and ATC XP are tubular aperture belay devices, the ATC Guide is an aperture-style self-braking belay device. ly/40YplOJ Black Diamond Guide: https://bit. Nov 3, 2020 · Best Multi-Pitch Guide Belay Devices Black Diamond ATC Guide Check Price and Reviews On Amazon This is the ATC XP, converted into a Plate Belay Device (explained below). When I'm rich I might buy a reverso just because they look so damn sexy but im sold on the atc guide for now. Price and other details may vary based on product size and color. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. From dynamic brakes to manual blocking devices, we'll help you find the perfect device for your climbing adventure. ly/3XykBw8more Oct 15, 2006 · Black Diamond ATC Guide (7. Petzl offers a wide selection of descenders and innovative belay devices designed for all vertical activities. The ATC is hung from your master point with one locking carabiner, then the bight of rope is clipped with a second locker. For single-rope trad I still use my trusty Trango B-52, which feeds "like TLDR: What ever color you like is the right choice. This well-rounded belay device doubles as a rappel device, and its capacity makes it our best bet for multi-pitch climbing. Like the ATC XP, it also has grooves to increase friction for a belay. Feb 3, 2019 · Garda hitch prusik plaquette style belay device (like a Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) Grigri Petzl Traxion Let’s have a look at the pros and cons of these. Aluminum ATCs also perform differently as the grooves on the brake side that provide 1-16 of 210 results for "petzl atc" Results Check each product page for other buying options. Black Diamond ATC Sport The Black ATC guide is much nicer to use on ropes over about 10/10. Petzl helmets are the result of over 30 years of development and innovation. The following information will help explain how to configure and use your belay device in REVERSO Mode. Other brands’ versions of this device (Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot, etc. without blocking support, the rope must be kept active at all times. We encourage new climbers to get a Gri-Gri over any Dec 18, 2012 · The Petzl Pirana is a Figure Eight based rappel device made specifically for canyoneering. It's easy to understand why: they're both affordable, smooth, and reliable. Apr 16, 2023 · The Black Diamond ATC-Guide and the Petzl Reverso are both great belay devices for experienced climbers. We can be confident of that Sep 30, 2016 · During more than six months of guiding, climbing, and ski-mountaineering in diverse alpine and rock environments in Colorado, Alaska, Canada, France, Italy, and Switzerland, I compared the Pivot to other popular belay devices (especially the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide) in a variety of situations such as toproping, crevasse rescue, belayed skiing into steep couloirs, top Jan 3, 2024 · Many companies and manufacturers have created their own version of the tube-style device, but among the most popular are the Black Diamond ATC Guide, the Petzl Reverso and the ATC pilot. Simple and effective, it's changed climbing. If you want a versatile option at a fantastic price, this is the one we recommend. Subscribed 379 32K views 2 years ago Black Diamond Alpine Guide: https://bit. Petzl Reverso and Black Diamond ATC guide break tests - how strong is that eye? Bogdan Cardoş asked Petzl how strong the metal eye was on the atc guide since it is a single point of If you are looking for a classic tube without autotube function, the ATC Guide from Black Diamond is the best choice. The specific design allows the rope to glide smoothly through the device and reduces wear. For years the Petzl Reverso and Black Diamond ATC Guide have been two of the most popular belay devices among American multi-pitch climbers. The Reverso does handle smaller ropes better than the full ATC (and vice versa for the ATC handling bigger ropes better), but I would still be concerned that when using a single strand of a super skinny rope in guide mode, the Reverso's tubes would be large enough to allow the load and belay strands to capsize and defeat the Aug 6, 2021 · For the ATC, your choice is fairly straightforward. Another common aperture-style self-braking belay device is Petzl’s Reverso. My belay device of choice for multi-pitch climbing is the ATC Guide, for its lightness, simplicity, and versatility. Since the device does not block automatically, i. It’s crucial in this scenario that your ATC has a second attachment point, aka guide mode, for belaying from above. The ATC Guide is also slightly heavier than its closest and most popular competition, the Petzl Reverso, but we think the extra durability is worth adding a couple tenths of an ounce. The ATC-Guide offers smooth handling while you climb with its lightweight and easy-to-use construction. Note: this characterization does not include ATCs with “guide mode” capabilities such as the Petzl Reverso (more on this category later. This configuration is referred to as using the “Guide Mode” of the ATC. The wire broke much higher than we thought it would at 6-7 kN! Feb 12, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a device we commend for being able to do it all. The ATC Guide is, in my opinion, the finest belay device ever made. Edit: Deleted repeated word Aug 14, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Lightweight and multipurpose, the Reverso can both belay and descend climbers with a snag-free, rounded design Mar 2, 2015 · Like most guide-mode tubular devices you’ll find it easy to belay from a fixed anchor or from your harness. Unique to the XP in this model is the guide mode loop. Apr 4, 2008 · In reply to TobyA: I seen the new petzl version and that was another basis for sticking with the atc-guide, if petzl are reversing (no pun intended) to black diamond design they clearly agree that its the way forward Cheers TobyA. It's easy to understand why, they're both afforable, smooth, and reliable. ) May 17, 2008 · I have an atc-guide which I replaced with a kong ghost when I found one of those over at Second Ascent and then I recently got the reverso3 to check it out too. Actually Bogdan Cardoş asked Petzl how strong the metal eye was on the atc guide since it is a single point of failure. HOW TO Belaying a second with the REVERSO Petzl Sport 179K subscribers Subscribed 535 Exactly how strong is an ATC? We pulled on a Petzl Reverso, Black Diamond ATC Guide, and a Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide to find out. The pilot wont let you rappel. They’re both versatile devices that can be used for a variety of climbing styles, and they both have auto-blocking release handles for extra safety. IMO: I have both and on average, I like the BD ATC Guide's ring orientation a smidge more. A side-by-side comparison view of three belay devices: BD’s ATC (left), DMM Pivot (center) and Grande Wall Gimli (right). The ATC Guide has an additional attachment point. Aug 26, 2021 · Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device (Guide)—I believe that ATCs still have an important place in rock climbing. 平常岩友們常使用的確保器大致上分為管狀確保器與輔助制停確保器兩大類型，他們到底是什麼呢？又有什麼差異呢？這次新手必學系列要與大家來談談確保器。 了解自己的確保器 最常看到的產品應該就是Black Diamond出產的ATC及Petzl出產的GRIGRI，不過像是Reverso、ATC guide等也很常見．而且現在各家廠商 Petzl USA. Whichever device you use, be sure you’re comfortable and knowledgeable on how to set it up and use it well. Aug 5, 2025 · See our guide to the best climbing belay devices of 2025, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. The Petzl grigri can also be used in a direct belay, though a redirected belay should be preferred when possible. If you pick the BD, just make sure you are aware that the "Alpine" version is for smaller ropes. If you’re not climbing multipitch, snag an ATC-XP (the regular ATC works just fine, but the brake grooves are useful). It can be used in low or high friction mode (something Petzl used in their update of the Reverso) and also as an ascender. At first glance our testers thought they would prefer the Reverso because it's lighter and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler. Comfortable, lightweight, quick and easy to adjust, it's an essential piece of safety gear for any vertical pursuit. The REVERSO can be set up as an assisted braking device when belaying from above on multi-pitch climbs. Many thanks to the representatives of all the manufacturers that supported our testing, we could not have afforded to purchase this equipment on our own. Will be weird to belay from the top with. Others have their preferences for similar designs from other brands, but I am pretty confident more mountains have been climbed with the ATC guide than any other. This is a pretty normal force . A face-on comparison view of three belay devices: Petzl Reverso (left), DMM Pivot (center) and BD’s ATC (right). Petzl Reverso 4 vs Black Diamond ATC Guide? Anyone owned both? Which one would you recommend? Price is not a factor. It functions as a tube device when belaying, and then allows you to belay up a partner in guide mode from the top, and it allows you rappel. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rap What is/would be your preffered way to rappel on a 6mm rope like the petzl rad line? Are there any devices like the petzl reverso or black diamond atc that work on a 6mm rope? thanks in advance for help:) This video is to talk about the gold standard regarding the style of belay device that has been on the market sense the invention of belay devices. Accepting ropes 7. The rope broke at about 10 kN. I know it's a minor change and won't save the world but I thought it was a little silly how consumable some ATCs are. In this configuration, the ATC is also able to apply a self-braking force on the rope. Nov 6, 2022 · The ATC belay device is ubiquitous at gyms and crags. Dec 22, 2022 · Discover the side-by-side comparison of the GriGri vs ATC belaying devices: history, pros and cons, best use. Caving, mountaineering, multi-pitch, cragging, canyoning, each activity has its device. ATC The ATC is virtually the most basic belay device you can find these days, if not the cheapest as well. Dec 5, 2024 · The ATC Guide 's closest competitor is the lighter Petzl Reverso, and they perform almost exactly the same, with slight differences in weight and auto-blocking friction. We have the same high and low friction sides with 2 tubes. Aug 28, 2021 · There are plenty: Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso, Mammut Smart, Petzl GriGri 2, Petzl GriGri +, and more. I've had a few situations where the Petzl Reverso was a better option but 9/10, it doesn't make a difference. com ATC guide is pretty much the gold standard belay device for mountaineering. For years the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide have been two of the most popular belay devices among American multi-pitch climbers. Jun 27, 2023 · The Gri-Gri, sold by French company Petzl, is the current gold standard for assisted braking belay devices. Clip to an anchor and have a great top belay for your partner. 7 mm to 11 mm): $24. Oct 12, 2022 · After burning through my latest Petzl Reverso shockingly fast I'm thinking about an ATC with steel wear points for a bit more longevity, smoothness on lower/rappel and eco-friendliness. Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Jan 31, 2008 · The Rev3 does look pretty sweet, but since I already have about a half-dozen different belay/rappel devices, I can't really justify pickup up yet another one. 5mm – 11mm it’s tied for the widest rope range of all the guide-mode tubular devices (same as Petzl’s Reverso 4 and Simond’s Tucan 2). With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. ly/3SuXqSG Petzl Reverso: https://bit. 1 to 9 Jul 11, 2025 · Yes, many belay devices can also be used for rappelling—especially tubular designs like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso, which allow for double-strand rappel setups. Jul 29, 2019 · The time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. They replied with "There is no standard requi Nov 13, 2007 · Petzl has improved on the design of the Reverso, but the BD ATC-Guide is still a better device. e. Many companies have their own take on the assisted braking device, but the Gri-Gri is by a wide margin the most popular. particularly in guide mode. Known for being versatile and lightweight, REVERSO is a belay device for single or multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. It has assisted braking but it probably isn't one of the top 3 the assisted braking devices on the market. 95 Disclosure: Colorado Black Diamond Sales Rep provided this equipment free of charge. It is compatible with most rope diameters: single 8. Note: especially for crevasse rescue, it’s really important to practice these different ratchet systems in the real world. Dec 15, 2021 · Any guide mode belay device, such as the ATC guide or Petzl reverso, can be used in a direct belay. As a dynamic belay device, the Tube is ideal for climbing in alpine terrain as well as on multi-pitch routes. It has several friction settings, so the correct friction for the rope/canyoneer/situation can usually be found… Feb 12, 2021 · Which ATC should I get? For all intents and purposes, all ATC-style devices, across all the brands, are all great and they’re all basically the same. Downloads 2026 Petzl Professional Interactive Catalog Check out the latest professional catalog to discover the new products for 2026, along with all our solutions for those who work at height and in dark environments — plus technical information and More information Jan 28, 2019 · By Jonathan Doyle - Tips, advice and comparisons on using guide mode belaying devices for rock climbing and mountaineering. Introduction I’ve lost count of the number of belay/rappel devices I’ve lost, worn out or simply decided the time had came to pass company. If you’re climbing multipitch, get an ATC-Guide and don’t look back. The main difference is Jun 19, 2012 · In reply to torquil: Has anyone used the revserso 4 / ATC Guide in autobloc mode on 8mm (or less) ropes? Also what is the guide like for abbing on 8mm ropes? My ATC XP which has pretty much identical jaws is a bit too slick on new 8mm ropes when abbing IMO. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Belaying a partner in REVERSO Mode takes the weight off of the belayer’s body and makes it easy to belay two climbers simultaneously. Here are our in-depth reviews. Newer options that are gaining solid following’s are the DMM Pivot which makes direct lowered off the anchor while in “guide mode” easier and the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide that is optimized for working with skinny twin ropes. ) are usually also fine. The Petzl Reverso device allows you to up your climbing game whilst out at the crag. It is much easier to control than faffing about with levering around the ATC Guide/Petzl Reverso/DMM Pivot/plaquette, quick to set up, easy to use for long lowers, and uses minimal equipment. Oct 8, 2023 · Discover the world of climbing belay devices with Antonio from Mountainreview. My point is that regardless of the brand there’s generally little to differentiate one device from another. Petzl is inventing products and provide solutions that allow sports enthusiasts and professionals to access some of the most inaccessible places, both day and night. (Much to the chagrin of my inner gear whore! ) I pretty much only use the ATC Guide for ice, as its toothed design works really well on iced up skinny doubles.