: What is an atc belay device If we do our job correctly, by the end of this article, you’ll know which belay device is best for you. Feb 12, 2024 · When looking for a rappel device for your next climb, be sure to consult this list. A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. With assisted braking technology similar to a Grigri, this device ensures smooth and secure control during belaying and rappelling. It is a type of tubular aperture belay device. If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. Tube devices are superior to plates for rappelling since they allow precise control of your descent speed. If they fall, the device will lock by itself almost instantly. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. ” Aug 26, 2021 · The base ATC is the most straightforward (you can’t load it backwards like the Guide since there are no ridges for the brake side), and it is cheaper than the Guide, though both are on the cheaper end for belay devices. The ATC belay device from Black Diamond is one of the most popular rappel devices in the world. Oct 1, 2021 · The ATC is a belay device used by a person on the ground – the belayer – to manage the rope attached to the climber and catch falls. Dec 15, 2021 · Belay Devices and Techniques for Belaying From Above In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. The ATC was initially a specific belay device developed by Black Diamond. A toothless tube option is available, too, as the classic Black Diamond ATC. Keep reading to learn about belay devices and how to pick the right one based on your climbing experience and the style of climbing you enjoy. A device used by belayers to pull a lifeline through as a climber climbs, and to stop it from moving when a climber falls. Dec 13, 2023 · The Best Device to Use in a Pinch Most guides carry both the GriGri and the ATC, but in a pinch, they may rely on one device over the other. ” Antin noted Sep 14, 2020 · If you aren’t going to get an assisted belay device we totally recommend the ATC Guide from Black Diamond for a few reasons. It is possible to dynamically belay both leader and the second, while the second can be belayed by tope rope belay either with the body or from top belay Jul 16, 2014 · Belay transitions can be the real time-suck of multi-pitch climbing. Even though guide mode belay What is the Best ATC Belaying Device in 2024? Here's a list of the Top 9 ATC devices for belaying based on our experiences and expertise. Direct belay – this is the recommended method by climbing schools today Redirected belay – this is the method used for many years and is still common today Indirect belay These 3 methods differ in how the belay devices are being set up and how the belaying is done. What is a climbing belay device? A climbing belay device is a tool used by climbers to control the rope holding a climber in case the climber falls and/or when the climber needs to be lowered. Learn how to choose a belay device for rock climbing. Perfect for single-pitch climbs. Aug 21, 2021 · What does ATC stand for belay device? The term “ATC” stands for “air traffic controller,” which was originally the name of one of Black Diamond Equipment’s belay devices, and has now been the standard term for all the brand’s devices with the same design. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Here, we review and recommend the best assisted-braking belay devices for rock climbing. Jan 4, 2024 · We break down every type of belay device and talk about where belaying started, and talk about which devices work best for your style of climbing. But before learning about each method, let’s Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. Jan 3, 2024 · The ATC climbing device, which stands for Air Traffic Control, is a tube-style belay device, usually with two holes and a plastic-wrapped loop of braided wire connected to the underside. It has since become so popular and its design has been replicated by other brands. ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. Aug 6, 2021 · Not sure which belay device to get? We tested the Petzl GriGri 2 and Black Diamond ATC side-by-side to help you know which is right for you. However, BD’s ATC was so popular that it had the “Kleenex effect. It looks like the BD ATC-Guide device may hold skinny ropes better than the B-52, due to the little slots in the narrower profile. With it you can belay on top rope and lead in sport and trad climbing, as well as rappel from the top of a route. This type of belay device pinches the rope in the middle of a camming mechanism that’s within the device. Here are our in-depth reviews. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. Learn how here. The ATC is a friction-based belay and rappel device that uses bends in the rope and contact with the devices surface to increase friction, which then allows for much easier slowing down or stopping of the rope from moving through the device Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. We use these ATC devices because they make belaying easier by creating friction. They can be used as a normal belay device too. In choosing between these devices, consider how much weight/price budgets and your intended use for the device. Includes the pros and cons of tubular, assisted braking and Figure 8 devices. Many climbing gyms will ask to see your belay certification or do a test before you are allowed to belay. Simply pull the brake strands through as the climber moves up. 5 mm range. Jul 8, 2021 · What is ATC Climbing Anyway? The ATC is one of the most common belay devices used in rock climbing. With the right belay device, a small, weak climber can easily arrest the fall of a much heavier partner. . Nov 6, 2022 · One of the climbing market’s most famous and trusted belay devices is the Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller or ATC. You can set up guide mode as shown, with one rope or two. CONDUCT. Nov 19, 2025 · What is a tube style belay device? Tube style belay devices are one of the most common styles for belay devices in rock climbing today. Its construction is based on the early Sticht plate. Some ATC-style belay devices have a 'guide mode' function - they can be set up in a way which locks automatically if a climber falls. Black Diamond’s most tried and true belay device was named the ATC to facetiously draw the connection between a falling climber and an aircraft trying to land at the airport. Because most climbers use the ATC as a belay device and almost everyone has one, it frequently ends up being used as a rappel device when rappelling Nov 22, 2021 · How does an ATC belay device work? A belay device acts as a brake on the climbing rope by applying friction to it. Dec 16, 2022 · Instead, it’s figuring out which belay device is best amongst the myriad of belay devices on the market. ATC stands for Air Traffic Control. However, in the case of the Black Diamond ATC, the device has a complex geometry and no traces of stamping or similar procedures. It is an essential device for climbing safety. The ATC does have a series of undercuts, which hint at investment cast as a probable metal-forming technique. An ATC needs to be clipped into the harness with a locking carabiner, the rope then runs through the bottom of the device, around the carabiner, and then back out through the top Dec 5, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. Aug 24, 2018 · Belay devices are experiencing a renaissance of sorts, with more innovative options on the market than ever. Confidently choose the right belay device. Knowing which belay device to use for every occasion and how to operate the device properly is key for safety and success when it comes to climbing ropes. But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay devices, the best belay devices for different disciplines of climbing, and, of course, when to choose a Grigri over an ATC (and vice versa). The Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) was made to provide the greatest support in most rappels and help you to maintain significant control. Keep reading to learn about the Grigri vs. Mar 7, 2019 · An ATC or Air Traffic Controller is a type of belay and rappel device manufactured by Black Diamond Equipment. Others have their preferences for similar designs from other brands, but I am pretty confident more mountains have been climbed with the ATC guide than any other. Dec 22, 2022 · However, which device is best for you is much less clear. Belaying your follower (or followers) with an auto-blocking device set up directly on the anchor allows Feb 13, 2010 · The ATC is the second smallest and lightest belay device tested, the first being the Petzl Verso, which is more expensive. 7mm to 11mm, single or double. The ATC, also known as a ‘tuber’ is probably the most common belay device that people use for climbing. It secures a climber as they are going up or down the wall. It is a tubular device, which gives it more area and steeper angles for creating friction and stopping power than a Sticht plate belay device. How to pass a belay certification? I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. The ATC, or Air Traffic Control, is a belay device that is used to control the rope when rappelling or lowering a climber. ATC. The BD ATC-Guide will hold a belay or rappel or follower on rope diameters from 7. Experience enhanced security with the ATC-Pilot Belay Device. Nov 20, 2025 · What is an ATC A Black Diamond ATC is a belay and rappel device made by the gear manufacturer, Black Diamond Equipment. 1. Although Kochendörfer prefers an ATC or an alternative device to the GriGri, he admits that there are some situations in which the GriGri excels: “The only occasion where we use GriGri-like devices is for tree rescue and lift rescue. In this respect it is very much like its predecessor, the BD ATC-XP, and innumerable other similar devices. [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. This Instructable is for reference purposes only, and is not meant to replace in- person training from a rock climbing professional. Mar 2, 2023 · A belaying device is an essential mechanical piece of equipment that plays a vital role in the climber’s safety. It is used to control a rope during belaying when applying friction. But how do you rappel with an ATC? Sep 18, 2023 · What Does ATC Stand for in Climbing? The term “ ATC ” in climbing stands for “ Air Traffic Control “. What makes the ATC-Guide unique is the addition of two loops of aluminum. So will the Trango B52 but I think the ATC-Guide is harder to mis-use. What’s a Belay Device? A belay device is climbing equipment that gives a belay to a climber. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. The Black Diamond ATC Belay Device The Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller, or ATC for short, is Black Diamond’s flagship belay device. Feb 22, 2020 · The belay device you choose to use will depend on personal preference and the type of climbing you do. Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. It features a groove that allows the rope to flow smoothly while also creating friction to regulate the speed of descent. An Italian hitch How to Belay With an ATC Belay Device: Pull, Brake, Under, Slide! Belaying is fun, but dangerous. What Does ATC Stand For In Climbing? ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. While there have been a few tweaks and improvements over the past 30 years since its development, the basic idea has remained unchanged. We really expected the newer devices with friction grooves to blow this old school model away but we were impressed with how the ATC pays out climbing rope as well, and maybe better, than many of the newer models. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. Exchanging gear, restacking the rope, eating, drinking, and whatever else you might need to handle at the belay stance can really burn away those precious daylight hours, so it’s crucial to be as efficient as possible. Are you taking a belay test soon and wondering how to pass your belay certification? Learning how to belay is an important skill for any climber. However, I am looking to get into lead climbing and potentially start going outside once I'm comfortable with the basics of lead (and when New England winter allows it lol). 2024 Climb Guide Harnesses, Ropes, Pro, Pads, Shoes & More Explore The ATC is a dynamic belay device. What is an ATC Guide Belay Device and How Belay device, a full history Vertical caving terminology and methods > Ladders, climbs and older techniques Belay device, belaying device, belay, belay plate, Sticht plate, stitch plate, ATC, ABD A very basic ATC belay device, and an auto-locking GriGri. The device, plus the belayer’s quick “braking hand” (which locks off the free end of the rope), helps keep tension on the rope and helps protect the climber at the other end. It’s got everything you need in a manual tube-style device as a beginner. With great holding and stopping power and a versatile design that accepts a wide range of ropes, this classic belay device is ready for a variety of missions. The ATC-XP is the next evolution of Black Diamond’s ‘Air Traffic Controller’, tubular belay device. Master the pros and cons of ATC, GriGri, and passive assist systems to become a more reliable climbing partner. I like my GriGri for more casual climbing, but the ATC style devices are more versatile and lightweight. It costs very little and last a long time. But what are the differences between the two? There are a lot of differences between these two belaying devices in terms of What Is An Air Traffic Controller In Climbing? – ATC Belay Device May 20, 2022October 1, 2021 What does an ATC do in rock climbing? The ATC is one of the most common belay devices used in rock climbing. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. Feb 22, 2020 · Belaying is an often overlooked, but essential skill to safe climbing, we share how to belay when climbing safely for top roping and lead climbing. Jan 31, 2016 · This device is similar to the ATC XP but with the ability to belay a follower from above directly off an anchor. Here are our best belay device picks! Nov 3, 2020 · We've brought you all the best belay device reviews out there, so just sit back & enjoy. 3 Methods Of Belaying From Above There are 3 methods of belaying from the top. It belongs to a group of belay devices which are in the Czech Republic called the “buckets”. Why is aluminum the main material used for belay devices? I also want to touch on the subject of constraints. There are three main types of belay devices, the tubular ATC, the auto-locking belay device and the semi-assisted belay devices. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Explore additional safety measures and advanced belaying practices to enhance your climbing skills and knowledge. A belay device is a metal tube that you feed a climbing rope through, used with a screwgate carabiner, in order to belay a rock climber. 13 of the world's top devices, compared, and tested! 10% lighter than its predecessor with improved feeding and pulling in guide mode, the versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers multiple friction modes for belaying and rappelling. Tubular Belay Devices The most common type of belay device used in climbing today is a tubular belay device, aka ATC, which stands for “air traffic controller. Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. EDU. They are made out of aluminum. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. Yes. ATC Guide by American company Black Diamond is practical and very popular belay device. What Is An ATC? ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. Hi, I'm just curious to know which belay devices you (as a climber) prefer for sport climbing? I had no problem with my belayers having either an ATC or an assisted braking device such as Grigri, ATC pilot etc as long as the belayer feels safe and competent. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. Aug 5, 2025 · See our guide to the best climbing belay devices of 2025, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. Aug 21, 2018 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “ geometry assisted ” belay device for ropes in the 8. 7 to 10. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. Not that I don’t love the passive belay devices, but the active assisted braking belay devices are THE most advanced available today. VN provides comprehensive guidance on belaying techniques, ensuring climbers understand the proper use and potential risks. At the end of the day knowing how to rappel with an ATC will lead to grander rappel adventures, descending heights and reaching destinations that previously were inaccessible. ” An ATC is actually one specific model created by Black Diamond, but it has become the mainstream term for tubular, just like a bandage is known as a Band-Aid and tissues are often called Kleenex. ATC stands for “Air Traffic Controller”, which is a tube-like belay device manufactured by Black Diamond. ATC guide is pretty much the gold standard belay device for mountaineering. May 10, 2025 · Using an ATC guide belay device correctly is crucial for climber safety when bringing up a second. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Petzl’s GriGri and Black Diamond’s ATC are two of the more popular belaying devices. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily.

What is an atc belay device. The ATC is a dynamic belay device.